I’ve always enjoyed pushing myself in bouldering, especially on climbs that are not my style. While I tend to do well with dynamic climbing, Booka Booka Booka, a V13 in Moe’s Valley, has this massive span move on it that’s at the absolute limit of my reach. It would have been easy to write it off and find something better suited to me, but instead it became this ideal space for me to explore my abilities at the absolute limit of my physical constraints. Everything had to line up perfectly for a send and usually those are the most worthwhile.
Magic Line 5.14. All gear placed on lead. Learned a lot from this one. Finding peace in a near constant state of tension. Moving softly while maintaining that tension. Trusting the granite, testing its limits of friction. Accepting a new feeling of flow. Imagining my feet are like the roots of a tree, grounded in each position. Then ripping them up and pressing them down again. Over and over. Just keep moving. No thinking, just moving. Seeing it through. Demanding perfection. Much thanks to everyone who I’ve shared the day with at this line over the years. We are lucky to have these places to test ourselves. Photos by @christian_adam_ . Thanks to @blackdiamond for the support and @marymeck for the belays. Video coming from @kippwagon.
Magic Line 5.14. All gear placed on lead. Learned a lot from this one. Finding peace in a near constant state of tension. Moving softly while maintaining that tension. Trusting the granite, testing its limits of friction. Accepting a new feeling of flow. Imagining my feet are like the roots of a tree, grounded in each position. Then ripping them up and pressing them down again. Over and over. Just keep moving. No thinking, just moving. Seeing it through. Demanding perfection. Much thanks to everyone who I’ve shared the day with at this line over the years. We are lucky to have these places to test ourselves. Photos by @christian_adam_ . Thanks to @blackdiamond for the support and @marymeck for the belays. Video coming from @kippwagon.
In the early 2000’s, when I began climbing, Five Ten @fiveten_official was THE brand to be associated with in climbing. With the best athletes, clever and edgy marketing, and the stickiest rubber and most innovative climbing shoes in the industry. The moccasym was my first pair of climbing shoes and when I saw the “Five Fifteenie” ad with @chris_sharma on the First Ascent of Biographie, I knew I had to have the Anasazi Velcro as well. In 2006, my professional relationship with the brand began after they offered me my first sponsorship. For the last 16 years I’ve had a wonderful time working for, promoting, and more recently helping develop shoes with a brand that I truly believed in from day one. Getting to know Charles Cole and all of the passionate employees that have worked for Five Ten over the years is an experience I will cherish forever. Unfortunately times change and all good things must come to an end. Beginning this year I will no longer be representing Five Ten as an athlete. It’s bittersweet for sure, part of me is still tied to the emotional connection I’ve had with the brand since the beginning, but I also realize that the Five Ten of today is not the same as the Five Ten of yesterday. I’m greatly looking forward to trying out the many different climbing shoes that have entered the market over the past years and also to spend time imagining what the future of climbing shoes might be. Photos of just a small portion of the shoes I’ve gone through over the years. Some relics in there. Can anyone name all the different models?
In the early 2000’s, when I began climbing, Five Ten @fiveten_official was THE brand to be associated with in climbing. With the best athletes, clever and edgy marketing, and the stickiest rubber and most innovative climbing shoes in the industry. The moccasym was my first pair of climbing shoes and when I saw the “Five Fifteenie” ad with @chris_sharma on the First Ascent of Biographie, I knew I had to have the Anasazi Velcro as well. In 2006, my professional relationship with the brand began after they offered me my first sponsorship. For the last 16 years I’ve had a wonderful time working for, promoting, and more recently helping develop shoes with a brand that I truly believed in from day one. Getting to know Charles Cole and all of the passionate employees that have worked for Five Ten over the years is an experience I will cherish forever. Unfortunately times change and all good things must come to an end. Beginning this year I will no longer be representing Five Ten as an athlete. It’s bittersweet for sure, part of me is still tied to the emotional connection I’ve had with the brand since the beginning, but I also realize that the Five Ten of today is not the same as the Five Ten of yesterday. I’m greatly looking forward to trying out the many different climbing shoes that have entered the market over the past years and also to spend time imagining what the future of climbing shoes might be. Photos of just a small portion of the shoes I’ve gone through over the years. Some relics in there. Can anyone name all the different models?
In the early 2000’s, when I began climbing, Five Ten @fiveten_official was THE brand to be associated with in climbing. With the best athletes, clever and edgy marketing, and the stickiest rubber and most innovative climbing shoes in the industry. The moccasym was my first pair of climbing shoes and when I saw the “Five Fifteenie” ad with @chris_sharma on the First Ascent of Biographie, I knew I had to have the Anasazi Velcro as well. In 2006, my professional relationship with the brand began after they offered me my first sponsorship. For the last 16 years I’ve had a wonderful time working for, promoting, and more recently helping develop shoes with a brand that I truly believed in from day one. Getting to know Charles Cole and all of the passionate employees that have worked for Five Ten over the years is an experience I will cherish forever. Unfortunately times change and all good things must come to an end. Beginning this year I will no longer be representing Five Ten as an athlete. It’s bittersweet for sure, part of me is still tied to the emotional connection I’ve had with the brand since the beginning, but I also realize that the Five Ten of today is not the same as the Five Ten of yesterday. I’m greatly looking forward to trying out the many different climbing shoes that have entered the market over the past years and also to spend time imagining what the future of climbing shoes might be. Photos of just a small portion of the shoes I’ve gone through over the years. Some relics in there. Can anyone name all the different models?
December 2016. Magic Line. After a few days of efforts I made it through the bottom crux and the slippery mid section but succumbed to a foot slip on the final hard move before the jug. Shortly after this day the weather closed in and I put Magic Line on the back burner. I kept meaning to go back to finish it off but other projects seemed to get in the way. But when you get that close it lingers in the back of your head. Glad I was able to clean up some loose ends this year. Makes it easier to approach the next round of projects with full commitment. Video by @bearcam @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb
Magic Line (5.14 trad) video is up! No fluff, just the send footage. Link in bio. Couple cuts to leave out the most boring moments but @kippwagon did an amazing job of capturing the actual send, up close and personal. Pretty crazy to rewatch even for myself. The route requires perfection in the feet and it seems so improbable to make it through without slipping. Thanks to @marymeck for all the cold belays and @christian_adam_ for the killer photos. And much thanks to @blackdiamond for the long time support.
Gasperini V11/12 at the Druid Stones in Bishop, CA. Fun to explore a more “off the beaten path” zone in the Bishop area a few weekends ago with a great crew. Mostly sampled the easier classics but managed to climb this fun harder one just before hiking back down the hill. A little munchy on the skin, but great movement. Video by @marymeck. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @theboulderfield
Getting back into the swing of things @theboulderfield the last few weeks. Transitioning from climbing only outdoors for a few months then coming back to the gym always feels a bit rough, but it’s fun to feel the plastic power return. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @frictionlabs
I’m admittedly not the best at flashing boulders, but I always leave a few to give a proper effort. Been waiting for good conditions on the ultra classic Bang On V12 at Black Mountain for many years and last year it lined up after a long, snowy walk up the road. I was most concerned about the first move, a huge cross over your head to a tricky slot crimp. After that, it seemed pretty reasonable power crimping to the jug at the lip. Check the link in my bio to see how it went…. Thanks to @jonnyhork for the pad help. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @frictionlabs
Bat hang swing off double toe jams. A variation on the kneebar twist that @ramrod92 and I set at the @tbfmasters a few years ago where a secure foot position allows you to rotate upside down and almost 360 degrees to allow progress through the problem. Love trying out these ideas @theboulderfield. @blackdiamond @fiveten_official @frictionlabs
Looking back on some of my favorite moves @theboulderfield over the last few years. Thanks to @davewetmore1 and @ramrod92 for always keeping it 💯! @blackdiamond @frictionlabs @blackdiamond_climb
Circuiting the Camp 4 classics last spring. King Cobra V8. Photo by @christian_adam_ . @blackdiamond
Currently in Ticino, Switzerland for a short stint and it feels like a good time to release this one for free. Heritage is a feature length bouldering film that was the culmination of two productive trips to Swiss in the Fall of 2012 and Spring of 2013. It has been behind a pay wall since it was released but I just uploaded it to my YouTube channel for free viewing. Link in bio. Featured climbs: – The Kingdom 8C/V15 (First Ascent) – The Story Of Two Worlds 8C/V15 (5th Ascent) – In Search Of Time Lost 8C/V15 (3rd Ascent) – Practice Of The Wild 8C/V15 (5th Ascent) – Heritage 8B /V14 (First Ascent) – Mystic Stylez 8B /V14 (3rd Ascent) – New Base Line 8B /V14 – Vecchio Leone 8B/V13 – One Summer In Paradise 8B/V13 – Limited Edition 8A/V11 Also, I added timestamps for the boulders if you want to skip the interviews and the other random shit we captured. Thanks to @marymeckphoto for doing most of the video work on this one. ❤️
Font grabs. Mostly filming but still finding time to plug away on the anti-styles. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @frictionlabs #fontainebleau
Font grabs. Mostly filming but still finding time to plug away on the anti-styles. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @frictionlabs #fontainebleau
Font grabs. Mostly filming but still finding time to plug away on the anti-styles. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @frictionlabs #fontainebleau
Font grabs. Mostly filming but still finding time to plug away on the anti-styles. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @frictionlabs #fontainebleau
Font grabs. Mostly filming but still finding time to plug away on the anti-styles. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @frictionlabs #fontainebleau
After another dry year it’s been really nice to see California getting a ton of moisture recently. I’ve been mostly training @theboulderfield but my mind is always drifting back to this place where I usually spend most of the winter. @blackdiamond
Good to see this guy back in action. @nathanieldavison on his “Departure”. A fine day out reflecting on the past, present, and future in an oxygen depraved haze. Again soon please.
Good to see this guy back in action. @nathanieldavison on his “Departure”. A fine day out reflecting on the past, present, and future in an oxygen depraved haze. Again soon please.
