Great trip to the mountains with @seanvillanuevaodriscoll We climbed a route (Yacaré) on Rafael which had been put up by The Odell brothers (@pedro_odell & @tomasodell3 ) in the last weather window These guys are only 19 and 16, and I was very impressed with some of their leads on the lower half of the route which wandered through loose and chossy terrain. Higher on the route there was an offwidth splitter pitch which hadn’t been fully freed. With Sean loving a good offwidth struggle as well, we got drawn into the idea of giving it ago. Turned out to be quite tricky due to a lot of ice and verglass in the wide section. The pitch turned out to be 60m of incredible rock and incredible grovel, with a delicate slab move to connect the cracks. If you want to see what climbing an icy offwidth is like…check out my last post 😅 Thanks Pedro and Tomas, and Happy Birthday Sean 🤙
Great trip to the mountains with @seanvillanuevaodriscoll We climbed a route (Yacaré) on Rafael which had been put up by The Odell brothers (@pedro_odell & @tomasodell3 ) in the last weather window These guys are only 19 and 16, and I was very impressed with some of their leads on the lower half of the route which wandered through loose and chossy terrain. Higher on the route there was an offwidth splitter pitch which hadn’t been fully freed. With Sean loving a good offwidth struggle as well, we got drawn into the idea of giving it ago. Turned out to be quite tricky due to a lot of ice and verglass in the wide section. The pitch turned out to be 60m of incredible rock and incredible grovel, with a delicate slab move to connect the cracks. If you want to see what climbing an icy offwidth is like…check out my last post 😅 Thanks Pedro and Tomas, and Happy Birthday Sean 🤙
Great trip to the mountains with @seanvillanuevaodriscoll We climbed a route (Yacaré) on Rafael which had been put up by The Odell brothers (@pedro_odell & @tomasodell3 ) in the last weather window These guys are only 19 and 16, and I was very impressed with some of their leads on the lower half of the route which wandered through loose and chossy terrain. Higher on the route there was an offwidth splitter pitch which hadn’t been fully freed. With Sean loving a good offwidth struggle as well, we got drawn into the idea of giving it ago. Turned out to be quite tricky due to a lot of ice and verglass in the wide section. The pitch turned out to be 60m of incredible rock and incredible grovel, with a delicate slab move to connect the cracks. If you want to see what climbing an icy offwidth is like…check out my last post 😅 Thanks Pedro and Tomas, and Happy Birthday Sean 🤙
Totally random picture, I’m no where near the desert. Tenuous little fight that one. Onsighting Blood Pulse (5.13-), 📸 by @mariaugustahs
Definitely one of the best moments of yesterday for me!! It was 2-2 going into the final challenge round of Wide Boyz VS Crack Festers. Wide Boyz had put in a solid hang time which was proving very hard to beat, then local Dylan Heason swoops in at the last moment, takes victory for the Crack Festers and a tidy sum of prize money 👏👏 What a show, and feat of jamming strength 🙌
Another short window of weather allowed us to try the newly established route “Anda p’ alla!” on West Face of Guillaumet, which was put up by @facusaubidet @jerecastana @santi.scavolini @franco_toscani at the beginning of Jan. Photos from the FA showed some amazing looking cracks and also suggested that the crux might be possible to free at 8a. The route didn’t disappoint, brilliant rock on perfect flaring splitters. @seanvillanuevaodriscoll put in yet more solid leads onsighting through the first points of Aid on pitch 4. Then I was up first at giving the crux pitch a look. The bottom section initially felt trickier than it probably should have, as it was a wet crack (about E5) which I had to chop ice from whilst climbing. I got stopped by an obvious crux; A thin seam with awkward body positioning and flaring finger jams. The individual moves went free and I went to the anchor. Sean had a lead and worked on the moves, then next go i surprised myself by redpointing it! We summited Guillaumet still in daylight and all got down safely to camp by midnight. Thanks for another good trip Sean and @julia.cassou And thanks Facu, Jere, Santi and Franco for opening a brilliant route. The estimated grades on the pitches with aid seemed about right. We thought 7b(ish) for pitch 4, and 8a(ish) for pitch 5. It’s an incredible place on the rock up there, but the mountains in Patagonia still scare me, so full focus and climbing well is the only option Pic 1. Crux pitch Pic 2. Summit Pic 3. At the belay after the crux Pic 4-5. Topo 📸 @julia.cassou 📸 Topo @patagoniavertical @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @sterlingrope
Another short window of weather allowed us to try the newly established route “Anda p’ alla!” on West Face of Guillaumet, which was put up by @facusaubidet @jerecastana @santi.scavolini @franco_toscani at the beginning of Jan. Photos from the FA showed some amazing looking cracks and also suggested that the crux might be possible to free at 8a. The route didn’t disappoint, brilliant rock on perfect flaring splitters. @seanvillanuevaodriscoll put in yet more solid leads onsighting through the first points of Aid on pitch 4. Then I was up first at giving the crux pitch a look. The bottom section initially felt trickier than it probably should have, as it was a wet crack (about E5) which I had to chop ice from whilst climbing. I got stopped by an obvious crux; A thin seam with awkward body positioning and flaring finger jams. The individual moves went free and I went to the anchor. Sean had a lead and worked on the moves, then next go i surprised myself by redpointing it! We summited Guillaumet still in daylight and all got down safely to camp by midnight. Thanks for another good trip Sean and @julia.cassou And thanks Facu, Jere, Santi and Franco for opening a brilliant route. The estimated grades on the pitches with aid seemed about right. We thought 7b(ish) for pitch 4, and 8a(ish) for pitch 5. It’s an incredible place on the rock up there, but the mountains in Patagonia still scare me, so full focus and climbing well is the only option Pic 1. Crux pitch Pic 2. Summit Pic 3. At the belay after the crux Pic 4-5. Topo 📸 @julia.cassou 📸 Topo @patagoniavertical @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @sterlingrope
Another short window of weather allowed us to try the newly established route “Anda p’ alla!” on West Face of Guillaumet, which was put up by @facusaubidet @jerecastana @santi.scavolini @franco_toscani at the beginning of Jan. Photos from the FA showed some amazing looking cracks and also suggested that the crux might be possible to free at 8a. The route didn’t disappoint, brilliant rock on perfect flaring splitters. @seanvillanuevaodriscoll put in yet more solid leads onsighting through the first points of Aid on pitch 4. Then I was up first at giving the crux pitch a look. The bottom section initially felt trickier than it probably should have, as it was a wet crack (about E5) which I had to chop ice from whilst climbing. I got stopped by an obvious crux; A thin seam with awkward body positioning and flaring finger jams. The individual moves went free and I went to the anchor. Sean had a lead and worked on the moves, then next go i surprised myself by redpointing it! We summited Guillaumet still in daylight and all got down safely to camp by midnight. Thanks for another good trip Sean and @julia.cassou And thanks Facu, Jere, Santi and Franco for opening a brilliant route. The estimated grades on the pitches with aid seemed about right. We thought 7b(ish) for pitch 4, and 8a(ish) for pitch 5. It’s an incredible place on the rock up there, but the mountains in Patagonia still scare me, so full focus and climbing well is the only option Pic 1. Crux pitch Pic 2. Summit Pic 3. At the belay after the crux Pic 4-5. Topo 📸 @julia.cassou 📸 Topo @patagoniavertical @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @sterlingrope
Another short window of weather allowed us to try the newly established route “Anda p’ alla!” on West Face of Guillaumet, which was put up by @facusaubidet @jerecastana @santi.scavolini @franco_toscani at the beginning of Jan. Photos from the FA showed some amazing looking cracks and also suggested that the crux might be possible to free at 8a. The route didn’t disappoint, brilliant rock on perfect flaring splitters. @seanvillanuevaodriscoll put in yet more solid leads onsighting through the first points of Aid on pitch 4. Then I was up first at giving the crux pitch a look. The bottom section initially felt trickier than it probably should have, as it was a wet crack (about E5) which I had to chop ice from whilst climbing. I got stopped by an obvious crux; A thin seam with awkward body positioning and flaring finger jams. The individual moves went free and I went to the anchor. Sean had a lead and worked on the moves, then next go i surprised myself by redpointing it! We summited Guillaumet still in daylight and all got down safely to camp by midnight. Thanks for another good trip Sean and @julia.cassou And thanks Facu, Jere, Santi and Franco for opening a brilliant route. The estimated grades on the pitches with aid seemed about right. We thought 7b(ish) for pitch 4, and 8a(ish) for pitch 5. It’s an incredible place on the rock up there, but the mountains in Patagonia still scare me, so full focus and climbing well is the only option Pic 1. Crux pitch Pic 2. Summit Pic 3. At the belay after the crux Pic 4-5. Topo 📸 @julia.cassou 📸 Topo @patagoniavertical @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @sterlingrope
Another short window of weather allowed us to try the newly established route “Anda p’ alla!” on West Face of Guillaumet, which was put up by @facusaubidet @jerecastana @santi.scavolini @franco_toscani at the beginning of Jan. Photos from the FA showed some amazing looking cracks and also suggested that the crux might be possible to free at 8a. The route didn’t disappoint, brilliant rock on perfect flaring splitters. @seanvillanuevaodriscoll put in yet more solid leads onsighting through the first points of Aid on pitch 4. Then I was up first at giving the crux pitch a look. The bottom section initially felt trickier than it probably should have, as it was a wet crack (about E5) which I had to chop ice from whilst climbing. I got stopped by an obvious crux; A thin seam with awkward body positioning and flaring finger jams. The individual moves went free and I went to the anchor. Sean had a lead and worked on the moves, then next go i surprised myself by redpointing it! We summited Guillaumet still in daylight and all got down safely to camp by midnight. Thanks for another good trip Sean and @julia.cassou And thanks Facu, Jere, Santi and Franco for opening a brilliant route. The estimated grades on the pitches with aid seemed about right. We thought 7b(ish) for pitch 4, and 8a(ish) for pitch 5. It’s an incredible place on the rock up there, but the mountains in Patagonia still scare me, so full focus and climbing well is the only option Pic 1. Crux pitch Pic 2. Summit Pic 3. At the belay after the crux Pic 4-5. Topo 📸 @julia.cassou 📸 Topo @patagoniavertical @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @sterlingrope
Thanks 2022 👍 Selection of highlights from climbing, events, friends, companies👇 January – moved to Norway February – @speakersfromtheedge Tour (raised over £1000 for @alpkit Foundation) March @reelrock Bridge Boys release with @tompaulrandall (2500ft roof crack) April – 23 x 5.13 trad routes in a month, (over 50% onsight or flash) – @mariaugustahs flashes Bellies – Crack Fest with @wide_boyz, 100% growth on year 1 May – Covid June – Kraken F8B (3rd ascent) – One Infinity F8A (2nd ascent) July – Hit 100k subs on Wide Boyz Youtube – Coached @tobysegar to establish trad multipitch FA in 5 days. August – Took Parents up Storen in summer snow September – FA of Britain’s Biggest (natural) roof, ‘Bar Wars’, 3 pitch roof. Thanks @calummuskett – FFA of Fjordcruise Direct (800m) on Kjerag. Thanks @jonegilauestad & @jhnilss1 October – Flashed trad 8b – Slabducted by @talomartin November @patagonia_climb Ambassador summit December – Continued work as @alpkit foundation trustee – Mari climbs long term trad project, Tazlov 8b. I make 2nd ascent Thanks to @patagonia_climb @patagonia @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @dark_ventures @sterlingrope And all my climbing partners: @mariaugustahs @tompaulrandall @matt_helliker @jonbracey_alpinist @jonegilauestad @jhnilss1 @calummuskett @jillwhitt @katy_whittaker @alexhaslehurst @davidpostelt @tradprincess @talomartin @peterkneen @tobysegar @nolwenberthier probably more…sorry. 📽️ crimps to crack 180.
@seanvillanuevaodriscoll getting to the belay after the crux offwidth pitch 🥶 One third of the pitch was full verglass, which meant armbaring, stacking and kneelocking in ice. The cams kept tracking out and the only way to keep them in was point the stem at 90 degrees to the crack (rather than stem pointing down), so the lobes would engage on the 6 inch of outer crack which wasn’t iced. Definitely a tricky set of scenarios to overcome this one…
A mixed first trip into the mountains of Patagonia. Whilst I was psyched to be there, it was hard to enjoy it to the fullest as I started getting ill the day before walking in. I felt close to bailing every day, but always just decided to give it a look…which ultimately ended with us topping out on El Mocho. We’d hoped to make an all free ascent of a previous aid line, but I struggled to put my fair share in and as it was quite tricky, we didn’t quite manage. All the moves were done, but not quite enough in a row to make a full free ascent. However, the climbing was absolutely amazing, and we did make free ascents of previous aid pitches. The one pictured (previously A2) turned out to be around E6, and something you wouldn’t want to fall on…especially given the location. This place really demands full focus the whole time, as an accident of any kind is going to leave you in a really sticky situation, even if it’s just something as minor as a twisted ankle. The Mountains here aren’t to be taken lightly. Thanks Sean and Julia for the trip Climbing photos 📸 @julia.cassou @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @sterlingrope
A mixed first trip into the mountains of Patagonia. Whilst I was psyched to be there, it was hard to enjoy it to the fullest as I started getting ill the day before walking in. I felt close to bailing every day, but always just decided to give it a look…which ultimately ended with us topping out on El Mocho. We’d hoped to make an all free ascent of a previous aid line, but I struggled to put my fair share in and as it was quite tricky, we didn’t quite manage. All the moves were done, but not quite enough in a row to make a full free ascent. However, the climbing was absolutely amazing, and we did make free ascents of previous aid pitches. The one pictured (previously A2) turned out to be around E6, and something you wouldn’t want to fall on…especially given the location. This place really demands full focus the whole time, as an accident of any kind is going to leave you in a really sticky situation, even if it’s just something as minor as a twisted ankle. The Mountains here aren’t to be taken lightly. Thanks Sean and Julia for the trip Climbing photos 📸 @julia.cassou @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @sterlingrope
A mixed first trip into the mountains of Patagonia. Whilst I was psyched to be there, it was hard to enjoy it to the fullest as I started getting ill the day before walking in. I felt close to bailing every day, but always just decided to give it a look…which ultimately ended with us topping out on El Mocho. We’d hoped to make an all free ascent of a previous aid line, but I struggled to put my fair share in and as it was quite tricky, we didn’t quite manage. All the moves were done, but not quite enough in a row to make a full free ascent. However, the climbing was absolutely amazing, and we did make free ascents of previous aid pitches. The one pictured (previously A2) turned out to be around E6, and something you wouldn’t want to fall on…especially given the location. This place really demands full focus the whole time, as an accident of any kind is going to leave you in a really sticky situation, even if it’s just something as minor as a twisted ankle. The Mountains here aren’t to be taken lightly. Thanks Sean and Julia for the trip Climbing photos 📸 @julia.cassou @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @sterlingrope
A mixed first trip into the mountains of Patagonia. Whilst I was psyched to be there, it was hard to enjoy it to the fullest as I started getting ill the day before walking in. I felt close to bailing every day, but always just decided to give it a look…which ultimately ended with us topping out on El Mocho. We’d hoped to make an all free ascent of a previous aid line, but I struggled to put my fair share in and as it was quite tricky, we didn’t quite manage. All the moves were done, but not quite enough in a row to make a full free ascent. However, the climbing was absolutely amazing, and we did make free ascents of previous aid pitches. The one pictured (previously A2) turned out to be around E6, and something you wouldn’t want to fall on…especially given the location. This place really demands full focus the whole time, as an accident of any kind is going to leave you in a really sticky situation, even if it’s just something as minor as a twisted ankle. The Mountains here aren’t to be taken lightly. Thanks Sean and Julia for the trip Climbing photos 📸 @julia.cassou @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @sterlingrope
Probably not what you really expect from a photo in Patagonia, However after arriving just after a short weather window, I’ve had time to sample a few bits and bobs lower down and closer to town, plus meet old and new friends. Thanks @julia.cassou for the 📸 from the boulders yesterday 📽️ a light breeze up at The Laguna Torre. Goodness knows how brutal that is in the mountains… @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @dark_ventures @sterlingrope
Probably not what you really expect from a photo in Patagonia, However after arriving just after a short weather window, I’ve had time to sample a few bits and bobs lower down and closer to town, plus meet old and new friends. Thanks @julia.cassou for the 📸 from the boulders yesterday 📽️ a light breeze up at The Laguna Torre. Goodness knows how brutal that is in the mountains… @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @dark_ventures @sterlingrope
Made a video of @mariaugustahs climbing her project 😀🎉 It’s posted on The @wide_boyz YouTube Channel if you’re interested 👍
Nice boulders around El Chalten. Pic 1. Gato Negro (7B), cheeky last move. 📸 @julia.cassou Pic 2. a favourite so far, (techy beta), Although no idea of name and grade, maybe someone can help me out? @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @sterlingrope
Nice boulders around El Chalten. Pic 1. Gato Negro (7B), cheeky last move. 📸 @julia.cassou Pic 2. a favourite so far, (techy beta), Although no idea of name and grade, maybe someone can help me out? @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @unparallelup @sterlingrope
EPISODE OUT NOW! My next guest is the supremely talented Pete Whittaker. Pete is widely regarded as one of the leading crack climbers in the world and I was delighted when he took the time to speak to me. . . #podcast #podcasts #podcasting #podcastersofinstagram #interview #climbing #crackclimbing #rockclimbing
Cellar scenes with @steghiso and @will_bosi from a few days ago I’m quite sure that after a couple days crack climbing, Stefano is converted from the crimp to the paddle 😉 however offwidth conversion might take a few more sessions 😅 Thanks for a fun session Stefano and Will. This was filmed for @wide_boyz and Stefano Ghisolfi Youtube Channels
New podcast with Pete Whittaker! 🔥🔥🔥 @petewhittaker01 is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers of all time. You know and love him as one of the @wide_boyz 👨🏼🤝👨🏻 We talked about: – Trying Stranger Than Fiction 5.14 in Moab 🏜️ – Training for the FA of Crown Royale 9a 👑 – The skills needed to climb cutting-edge cracks 🫲 – Why he is still working on ring locks 💍 🔒️ – The futuristic Crucifix Project 😳 – His most fun, rewarding, miserable & traumatic trips with @tompaulrandall 😂 – And much more! 🎙️EP 196: Pete Whittaker Link in highlights! (Latest Episodes) 📲 📸 of Pete on the FA of Crown Royale 9a by @andrew_burr
